Night Stand

Night Stand Build

While visiting my brother during my WIA trip. I used his spare bedroom. He had two beds in this room with a table chair between the beds for use as a night stand. I offered to build him a night stand. The night stand design is a simple, but perfect fit for his needs. He asked for a drawer and I added a drawer to the design. The whole table build from Solid Cherry wood and features tapered legs, breadboard ends, grain match drawer front and even though its tough to see book match grain on the top. I designed the table to fit the space. The top is the size of a pillow case, this was what I based the size from. I had a pillow in the room checked the fit and it was perfect.

If you would like a SketchUp File or just want to help out the shop feel free to donate below.
Email me at: mike_fulton@mfwoodshop.com after you donate for the SketchUp File for this build.
A few days before I started, I milled rough cut lumber to rough length, width and thickness. After and few days I re-milled all the boards to final thickness. All the parts except the legs are 3/4″ thick. The legs are 1 1/2″ thick. Following the SketchUp plans began to layout the parts. I started with the top because I had to glue up some boards to make a panel.
I was very careful on how the top was laid out. I wanted the best face and the best grain match with the material as I could get. I spent about ten minutes laying the boards out and looking close for the best look. Once I got the look I wanted and use a dowel jig and place dowel to align the board while gluing. Someday I would love to get a Festool Domino  XL this whole project would have went fester and easier with this tool. Maybe someday!!!
vlcsnap-00044The aprons got cut to width. All four of the are the same width. The front apron leave a little wide and long for the next step.
The front apron is left wide and long so that the drawer front can be cut out of it. the picture on the left is the over sized board. The picture on the right is how you need to cut it on the table saw to use this piece for the drawer front. Once you cut it out, you need to glue it back together with out the middle piece. That piece will be your drawer front. Note: make a mark on this piece so you know how it fits back together again. This will assure that you have good grain match throughout the project. Also not your saw blade kerf size and account for that.
You can see here what that looks like.
On to the legs. The legs all 1 1/2″ X 1/ 1/2″ thick. I taped all four together and cut them to final length. Next I spent some time picking out where each leg will go on the table. Once I got the location for each leg. I grouped them together and drew a triangle on the top. This way I always put the legs in the right location when I marking them for mortises and other layout operations. I took my time a laid all the mortises out in the right location on each leg. I then use my father in-laws mortise machine to cut the mortises. Next I put a small taper on the inside face of each leg.
The tenons are cut to fit the mortise. Take your time and sneak up on this fit. I used a 1/4″ stacked dado blade to make cleaner cuts. the mortise and tenons are about 5/8″ deep. the SketchUp plans was laid out with 1/2″.
I decided, after the plans was made, to do breadboard ends.  This will help keep the top flat and looks better. The ends are 1 1/2″ wide. The mortise and tenons are 3/4″. First the ends needs a dado ran full length and depth. Make one cut then flip end for end and make another pass. This will assure that the dado is cantered in the board. The top need a tenon on each end to match the thickness of the mortise. Again you want to take your time and sneak up on this fit. Use a flat bottom saw blade or dado stack  for a easier fit. I didn’t show in the video I cut about and inch off the tenon and lightly glued that part on the breadboard ends, at the end of each dado. I left them hanging out for now to trued them up later. This closes the gap and lets the top move inside the breadboard. The are glue in lightly in case the top moves to much these part will fail instead of the breadboard. Minor glue points on the joint as well I put a dot in the mortise on each end and the middle, that’s it. You want the breadboard to fail if anything and not the top to break apart during wood movement.
Assembly the main table is easy. Glue the joints, insert the tenons into the mortise. If all your cuts are good and square the this will be easy part.
This drawer joint I really like, its easy to make. its strong and it hides a lot. Start with the blade height the same as the thickness of your front a and rear board of the drawer. Run a dado in the center of the end. Then cut the inside tongue in half. On the side piece cut a single dado to fit within the joint you just made on the front and back. The diagram shows this best.

draw-front-joint

The red board is the front and rear piece. The green is left and right piece.  This joint is easiest with all four parts same thickness. It can be done with thinner sides with little more lay out. The depth of the dado on red needs to be the same as the thickness of the green piece.
Now just run a dado on the bottom of each drawer piece to fit what ever thickness material your using. Then dry fit the assembly.
vlcsnap-000881Under the table construction.
Dark Red Arrow = Drawer runner supports.
Green Arrow = Holds the drawer runner supports with pocket hole screws.
Red Arrow= Drawer runner and drawer stop held on by three screws
Blue Arrow = This is where the upper drawer run will go (not shown in the picture)
Yellow Arrow = Table top hold downs. These allow the top to move.

vlcsnap-00085

First time using this finish and I love it!!! Briwax Clear

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